CoreXY Printers

I'd like to thank Jeff (Jean-François Talbot) for posting his Ike:CoreXY printer design on the TL forum and Thingiverse.
It got me started on this project and gave me some fruitful directions. Here is a list of the printers I've looked at.

CoreXY
http://www.corexy.com/
https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/h-bot-and-corexy-3d-printers
for a design that avoids angled belts see "A new anti-intersection iteration of the CoreXY principle design"

at https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/h-bot-and-corexy-3d-printers/jR83iH8H2IM

A Core-XY Implementation - http://joshuavasquez.com/docs/jVasquez/Projects/coreXY.html
CoreXY by frankie, published Apr 25, 2012 - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:22005
FABtotum - Belts and stuff: experiences to share. - http://blog.fabtotum.com/blog/2014/04/04/belts-and-stuff-experiences-to-share/

H-Bot/CoreXY Based
OpenBuilds - H-Bot based 3D Printer by swe3tdave, published Sep 20, 2013 - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:153461
Ike:Core - 3D printer based on CoreXY by jayftee, published Apr 27, 2014 - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:313095

trinitylabs-talk › New printer - Jean-François Talbot 4/28/14 - https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/trinitylabs-talk/QKK2uSHpnXY
components from hotends.com (hotends), panucatt.com (printer board), qu-bd.com (heatbed heater) and openbuilds.com (motor, pulleys, and fasteners)

Robero - http://reprap.org/wiki/Roboro - 300 x 300 build volume (no released info)
MiraCube V1.0 by f3rdys, published Jun 20, 2014 - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:358878
CoreCube SAKURA(original reprap printer) - by ichibey, published Sep 14, 2013 - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:150767
CoreCube SAKURA Rev.2 - by ichibey, published Oct 5, 2013 - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:161000
HAluBot - Part 1 - May 21, 2013 by Anthony VH - http://www.anthonyvh.com/2013/05/21/halubot-part-1/

No Part 2 - note use of Igus 17 mm wide DryLin N (NS-01-17) Rail & mating carriage (claims they are inexpensive) - note Igus temp limits!.

Maker Track XL 3D printer kit - http://makertrack.com/category/products/

U-Conduit
Max Potential Build Envelope 265mm (W) x 250mm (L) x 240mm (H)
Reprap Wiki - http://reprap.org/wiki/Uconduit - Photos at http://imgur.com/a/GBHIu#0
Boulder Hacker Space - The Uconduit Printer - http://boulderhackerspace.com/2013/06/08/introducing-the-uconduit-h-bot-3d-printer-reprap/

UConduit H-Bot 3D Printer / Reprap - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:102972
hosted on github at https://github.com/iquizzle/uconduit
for printed parts BOM and printing suggestions see: https://github.com/iquizzle/uconduit/tree/master/STLs/plates

Terawatt Industries - http://store.terawattindustries.com

https://github.com/Terawatt-Industries/uconduit

My UConduit Build - https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/h-bot-and-corexy-3d-printers/rtzN2CwrUow
UConduit -- next steps - iquizzle - 9/24/13 - (double length bearings) https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/h-bot-and-corexy-3d-printers/ppd10DFn4Os
Building a UConduit and Questions - Cameron MacLachlan - 9/2/13 -
    https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/h-bot-and-corexy-3d-printers/ozlSjOOEHpo

There are design changes that would help. here's my short list so far [and in no particular order] -

build bed - supported on 4 z-rods, with 2 z-axis feed screws. I'm thinking of a metal frame to keep it lightweight,
    but could also use a 1/4 in alum plate, with cut outs to lighten it.
use of 10mm rods instead of 8mm, improves rigidity significantly. available from http://us.misumi-ec.com/ cut to length, they also sell
    the mating linear bearings, although VXB's might be cheaper. [shipping costs might change that...]
use of more than one linear bearing on carriages to avoid wobble - see iquizzle's note here: Building a UConduit and Questions
    https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/h-bot-and-corexy-3d-printers/ozlSjOOEHpo
I still like the idea of Boro glass build surface, but I haven't found a supplier who can provide custom sizes. [I'm looking at something like 8x16
    mostly because I can find 8x8 12v bed heaters, and use a pair of them and run them off of a 24v supply]
replace the Z-couplers with 'real' machined parts. z-wobble caused no end of problems on the A1 early (first batch) machines.
use z feedscrews with anti-backlash nuts. [yes, I know the z only goes in one direction during a build, but it's one less thing to worry about]
    also available from misumi cut to length and turned down to mate with a coupler.
I'm going to modify the conduit corner's so that it can support the addition of a set of panels to enclose the printer. Important for ABS printing of "tall" parts..
The A1 uses a direct drive extruder. The Ike:Core I pointed you at used it on their carriage. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:313095 but the designer commented
    that all that weight on the carriage causes the frame to vibrate. So.. I'm exploring Bowden style extruders. While I can always build 00str00der - a belt-driven,
    gear-based, open-source extruder http://reprap.org/wiki/00str00der I should be able to re-use the A1's geared stepper in a bowden style design.
    that's still a work in progress, slowed by my lack of familiarity with the use of a guide tube...
changing the drive belt guide rollers into 'real' idlers instead of 3d printed parts that slide on over bearings.. I'm going to have to re-do the idler mounts and the drive
    belt path in any case. see note above and https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/h-bot-and-corexy-3d-printers/jR83iH8H2IM

Contact Information
Contact me using: fpirz (at) media (dash) conversions (dot) net

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