A1 ABS Printing

This page should be sub-titled - What's Not printing! - In spite of initial successes with ABS my attempts to print larger parts have not been successful.


My calibration squares come out the correct size but I'm not happy about the edges. They are being printed at .3 layer height and 100% infill, I also tried some at 33% infill.
It was the subject of the "Is my Bed Bent" thread on the A1 forum
but I didn't get any answers that addressed the problem.


Above: I printed new bed corners (Thanks Glenn!) and leveled the bed
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:75099
Right: I re-printed the J-head Fan Shroud (Thanks Eugene!)

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:68666
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:68674


The Fan shrouds above and Left  may have been printed at .25 layer height which would account for the better appearance of the outer surface but the bottom edge certainly has more voids than I would expect. There's also apparently an adhesion problem (or a Gcode/slicing error - since it's identical on both) at the bottom right corner where the two layers of the inner ring of the shroud are. More later.

SO I moved on to some real R2 parts - these are called shoulder buttons and are 1 in. in diameter and .625 in. high

Right - note that the bottoms are square - printed at .3 layer height and 33% infill. I'm not really happy with the finish on the top.


I made hollow versions of the Sholder Butons and printed at .3 layer and 100% infill.

Below Left & Right: I didn't look for warping problems until later on, but it turns out the bottom edges of all of the parts are slightly warped.





Then I tried printing some larger parts. They warped badly before the print was complete.




I happened to aquire an Envirotech "The Shopheat" portable heater at a flea market yesterday so I thought I'd try using it again to warm the printing envelope.

It didn't help this print, which also warped before it completed. I expect I need to turn up the heater more. My basement ambient is around 20-22 C.  I was getting about 70 C from the heater, but it was lower at the bed. I'm guessing I need to be a lot hotter.

I would tent my printer but I'm afraid of melting printer parts, and then I won't have a printer to print replacement parts with. Apparently I can't print ABS parts with the printer I've got. Catch-22 anyone?

After posting my problems on the A1 forum thread "What's not printing (correctly) on #45 - ABS warping" and getting several replies I made some changes:
1) I used Wexford clear/washable glue stick instead of "ABS juice" - I wanted the Elmers all purpose or Disappearing Purple (washable) but it was what the store I was in carried. I thought it might be similar to the Elmers Purple because it is also washable.
2) increased my extruder temp from 224 C to 230 C
3) increased my bed temp from 95 C to 110 C
4) increased the temp on the spot heater. I measured 70 C on the LH side of the bed and 65 C on the RH side.

This was my first attempt after making all of those changes.
One other thing happened: the nut holding one of the bolts at the bottom of the J-head fan shroud fell off while this print was starting up. Fortunately is caused no damage as I was able to snatch it off the print bed before it got caught by the extruder.

The first attempt peeled off of the glue coating easily. I noticed that the skirt loop was really spread out. This told me that my Z=0 setting was too low. But I had checked it! So I went looking for something that would make it change. I found that the Z-axis endstop was loose! I tightened it up and reset my Z=0 setting.

The second time was the charm!

I got a good print. I'm just hoping this is the start of a trend!

I can't tell which of the 4 things I changed "fixed" my problem. The glue stick coating dosn't seem to grab the printed part any better than the "ABS Juice" did. So it may just be the temp changes. I don't know (yet) but having had an initial success I have a benchmark point that I know works.

Question: I's like a better finished top surface. What should I change in the slic3r settings that might give me better surface results?



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